Up next in 10
33 Ford Fender repair (Part 2): Forensic Files
15K views
Sep 27, 2022
https://www.proshaper.com Our Amazon Storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/proshaper 33 Ford Fender repair (Part 2): Forensic Files In this video we cut out the rotted piece of the 33 ford fender. Wray slows carves away the metal that's wrapped around the wired edge being careful not to cut the actual wire. Once it all cut away we see where the wire split which caused the fender to be pushed in the front about 5/8". Wray cleans up the wire removing the rust and then using our Vulcan tig welder he welds the wire back together ensuring the fender is the correct length. He then cold forges the welded wire using a body dolly and hammer. Once it's all welded Wray confirms the the bead flows exactly like the other fender using the Flexible shape pattern. By this point it is 11pm and we were beat so the next episode will be creating and welding the patch panel in. Email: Wray@Proshaper.com Website: https://www.proshaper.com Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ProShaper/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/proshaper/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/ProshaperM Linkedin: https://www.linkedin.com/company/pros...
View Video Transcript
0:00
Hi, it's Ray Shaline from Pro Shaper Workshop in Charlton, Massachusetts
0:14
Welcome back. We're back on this 33 Ford Fender. And if you've watched episode number one, we found out that this is a big problem
0:24
And tonight we're going to cut it open. It'll be like revealing the mystery
0:29
of what happened there. But before we do that, let's check this out
0:34
What you're looking at here is the GoCod Volkswagen aluminum body made by Jason from Marlborough
0:44
And he won a contest, and it was for 10 days, but he's been so good at it and dedicated
0:51
and he's actually going to do the whole project. The only thing I'm really disturbed about is he hasn't done this running board yet
0:59
I've been saying, Jason, we've got to get this running board. He's been dittling around with these panels here
1:05
He's got these almost finishing. Then, hopefully, the running board. But I just want to ask you, Jason, how much shaping did you do before you came here and learned
1:14
So no shaping, no shaping experience before I came here. No shaping experience at all
1:19
You never used an English wheel. No, no, no. I started in February
1:24
February, yeah. It's progress since February. Yeah, he comes in a couple times a week
1:28
can't. No, it's just, it's, you know, when I started, it seemed like it would take forever to get it done
1:34
But it's amazing. We only have the running board and then this, I'm finishing up this panel here, so we're getting very close
1:41
So it's amazing how fast I've, how quick I've learned. And I think it's due to raise patience and his ability to explain things, I think, in a simple way
1:52
It's exciting to be so close to the finish line. Yeah. And he signed on actually for
1:58
the whole deal he's going to help make a new chassis for it and make it running and everything
2:02
This is going to be for my grandson. And it was another group of guys at another class
2:08
It was like five guys that did this wire for him. It's a custom one-off VW
2:14
And hopefully my grandson is going to fit in there. Let's get back to that 33 Ford Fender
2:21
So here's the other fender. This is the left side fender. And both of them are pretty choppy
2:28
a lot of little dense micro dense and good size little dense and I've focused on
2:35
this part here I've thrown everything at it I've got the mon there and
2:40
also magic marker and now this is black lacquer and I've smoothed this all
2:46
out I've used the shrinking disk my slapper and we'll cover this in another
2:52
video maybe part three showing how to get these nice super smooth surface
2:58
I've got this pot pretty much done. There might be a few little micro spots. I've got to fix
3:03
Over here still needs attention. There's still a little bit of chatter over in here that needs to be fixed
3:10
And I found this little spot to be really tricky to do. Right in here is a real bugger
3:15
It's hard to get your slapper in there. It's hard to get a hammer in there. But from here over is not that bad
3:21
But the whole fender, it has been sandblasted. It wasn't warped. And they put the
3:28
a gray epoxy primer on it and basically I have to sand off the epoxy primer. I use that little
3:35
Habifrate sander. I don't have it right here right now. Oh here it is right here. This little
3:40
two inch harbifrate sander with 80 paper will sand that primer off really, really nicely
3:47
So the rest of the fender is going to have to be addressed. This is probably beat up a little
3:51
bit along the edge here and then there's some in the back I got to do. So this fender is actually a
3:57
pretty pristine fender for a typical Ford Fender. Its partner, the right side is we've got that bad damage spot that we're going to cut out right now
4:08
All right, the objective here is we want to find out what's happened to this wire that's in here
4:16
So we don't want to cut right through here. We're going to have to peel this away
4:21
And we'll make rounded corners. The rounded corners on these patches are a little better to weld in
4:27
rather than a square. It's not that big a deal, but that's what we're going to do on this one
4:32
We're going to use these little Dremel cutoff wheels. They have this really little cool
4:37
quick change capability. Now that's the actual size of the cutoff wheel. They're 1.30 second inch
4:44
thick, and we're going to use those. We'll sneak up on it here. We've got to cut these
4:51
corners. We'll sand those corners in after. Alright, now we're gonna need a new wheel. That wheel was worn down quite a bit already
5:15
You pull this little lock down, pop it in, turn it, and then it locks like that
5:59
There's the patch
6:17
They've welded a piece right on top, on the inside. And now we've got to investigate exactly what's happening in here
6:27
It's getting a little hot. And we don't want to break or nick that wire
6:38
We're going to try to, if we have to, hopefully the wire is still good to about here
6:44
and then we can put a new piece of wire in. This is going to have to be lengthened out a little bit
6:50
So it'll be a little bit longer. Let me get a pair of pliers
7:06
Alright, we cut the little piece out. I took the pliers and broke it loose here
7:12
We're going to slowly whittle away at this
7:27
That doesn't look good. Let me get a light
7:41
I'm going to use these little nippers. Then we can peel that out of there, let's see
7:47
There we go. There's the wire, look at that. There's, uh, let's say like 80 years of rust or something
7:56
So far it looks like the wire is intact and I didn't nick it here at all, so that's all good
8:16
They might have welded to it though, I'm not sure. I've got to cut some more right in here
8:26
Let's open in a tin can here. Now that should come right loose, but apparently, okay, it looks like that is a
8:56
brake right there yeah they might have put a piece in there or something there's
9:01
something odd right there we're gonna get this unattached it might be welded
9:10
I have to grind it all the way so let's continue with this little one the wheels
9:19
wear out pretty fast but they allow you to do this little precise work without wrecking anything
9:26
I gotta put another wheel up. That look definitely looks broken right there
9:56
I think they used a hardening rod or something
10:09
That's pretty hard
10:22
Let's see if we can break that loose. You can see where the wire is broken right there
10:42
That will explain why this thing is crunched in here. It's bent in
10:49
I'm pretty sure. Got to cut the backside of that. There we go
11:01
There we go All right so our wire is intact
11:17
It's there, but it was broken. All right, look at that. There's our 5 eighths of an inch right there
11:23
We're moving this 5.8s over here. This fender was crunched in 5 eighths of an inch
11:29
Now let's put this gauge on here. We'll put that on
11:39
Right to here. Now I'll bring this out. Look at that. It's perfect
11:51
So when they repaired it, look at that. That's how minute that damages
11:56
It looks like the wire broke, but it pulled it in when they put the
12:01
the patch in there, it shrunk it and caused all that pain and suffering
12:12
We're going to make sure this measurement is correct and we'll hold it while we're doing the weld
12:19
First we've got to clean this wire up and probably cut it with a scarf joint and put a new
12:25
piece in here and we'll have to wire brush it to get all the rust off of it
12:30
So we'll be back after we get that done. Alright, so we're going to clean this rust up a little bit
12:36
It looks like it did a good job
12:46
Now the issue here is we've got to spread a good job
13:06
this fender to get that correct measurement. So we'll have to clamp on a bracket and that will
13:17
tell us exactly where this has got to be. It's only a little bit that is open here, but if
13:23
we weld that together right there, let's see. Yeah, we can probably do that. We can fill that
13:29
in. We might do that. We're going to, if we put a piece in then we have two joints to do
13:36
This one's going to have a big void in it, but I think we can fill that up
13:43
All right, so I'm going to straighten this out a little bit with a hammer and dolly
13:56
All right, we stretch that fender out, and we've got to get a fender out, and we've got to get a
14:06
gap of about an eighth of an inch that's got to be made up right there. Now I could
14:12
scarf joint that in. A scarf joint is two acute angles coming together and welding it
14:18
and you get more surface area. But this is going to have a piece right in the middle and I'm
14:22
going to be able to cold forge it or hot forged it after and it'll probably expand it a
14:27
little bit. So I'm using a 3.30 second rod. I only got 40 amps. We'll see what happens
14:32
here. I'm going to try to blob it in and we'll forge it
14:36
and grind it after. All right, that came out pretty good
15:11
I had to copper behind there holding everything in alignment and it also put a floor on it
15:18
We're best to tip it over and then try to get the backside as well, so we'll do that next
15:23
All right, we're going to weld the back of that wire now. You can clearly see it
15:27
We've got the little Hobra Freight LED light here. Lights it up nice
15:31
But before we do that, I just want to remember to say that everybody, please tell all you
15:36
friends let's get some more subscriptions let's get the comments coming and the the
15:41
the likes and also ring that little notification bell every time there's a new video you'll be
15:46
able to see it we're trying to build this channel uh we did the russ video we got crazy views on the
15:53
russ video we do a beautiful video like this it shows you some really good stuff and it just
15:59
doesn't do much so you got to spread it out on social media a little bit help us build the
16:04
channel thank you A lot of extra material on, we'll have to grind it, and we're going to cold forge that now
16:22
And that will actually spread it out a little bit more, which is what we might need to happen anyways
16:27
So let's stand the fender up again and we'll take another look at it. All right, so we got that welded up, and I was going to hit it with a hammer, just a coal for
16:36
together a little bit here put the dolly underneath here and we going to grind that excess off And this wire we spread it out so we get the correct length on the fender
16:55
But that's not the only thing holding this fender from collapsing. As we can see now, we got the wire welded and we can still flex that fender out
17:05
And what we're going to have to do is we'll take. can make a bracket and we'll make the bracket probably on the other fender that will bolt into
17:16
one of these holes here and it'll probably use a piece of angle eye and it's got some good strength
17:20
and we'll bring it over here and have a flange here that we can put a nice vice grip clamp on there
17:27
and that'll hold its spread when we create this new patch with the bead which has to match all up and
17:37
everything and that that will eventually get rolled over here around the wired edge so
17:44
it'll look exactly like factory when we're all done and the welds will disappear
17:49
totally would be using the tig welder you can see how nice that tig weld that worked on
17:54
welding that up if you did gas I'm sure you could do it with gas and you can probably
17:59
do it with mig but the tig generally is a pretty malleable weld and that should work fine
18:07
I'm going to grind that up a little bit first on the back side, then the front side
18:14
and we'll go from there. That's that
18:30
Now we'll tip it over and grind the front side. That feels pretty good
18:46
And now we'll clean this opening up a little bit. We've got a little drum stand there
18:53
We'll sand out those edges and corners there. It is all cleaned up
19:11
Now let's take some of this epoxy off
19:29
Does that little half-a-frey 2-inch details seem. detail sand if you haven't bought one of these buy a couple of them they're really good
19:38
I've bought four or five of them haven't worn one out yet we'll have to sand on the
19:51
inside too because that epoxy primer really screws up the welding process with fumes
20:03
All right, now let's check out how that flexible shape had
20:15
It wouldn't work for beans before. So we're going to locate it on there
20:24
Bring it around here. And now you can see it's right where it wants to be on the bead there
20:33
So we're going to get some magnets, hold it on, and then what I'm going to do is trace it
20:38
on the inside here. So I'll be able to figure out exactly the size of the patch panel that we need
20:47
All right, I put the Flexible Shaped pattern, of course it's inside out, registered on that mounting
20:52
hole, and this is all registered right where the bead valley is, and it's all sitting really nice
21:00
that it held on with the magnets. when we put that on there, when that piece was welded in there, these didn't register at all where the bead was
21:09
But I'm afraid that what I was going to do is take and just ink it in here with a pen
21:16
and that would give me the exact size of the patch that I'm going to have to make
21:20
But I think it would be a better idea to make that special bracket, the spreader bracket
21:26
We're going to make the spreader bracket off of the other fender, and then we'll put it in the exact same location on here
21:32
before we ink this to make sure our patch panel is correct size
21:37
because we don't want this pulling in again. So I think that's going to be it for tonight
21:41
It's about 10.30 already, and we've got to hit going home. So thanks for watching
21:47
It's Ray from Pro Shaper. Stay tuned for Part 3. We'll weld this in, make the patch welded in
21:53
and we'll probably do some dent repair as well with the shrinking desk, torch, all the little implements and tricks we use
22:02
with taking dents out. So stay tuned. Metal is clay. It's Ray Shaline
#Automotive Industry
#Classic Vehicles
#Custom & Performance Vehicles